There are a couple of articles that appeared in the Washington Post over the past couple of days that paint an interesting picture of the sushi world. The first article here (via WTOP) describes a shortage of sushi chefs in the Washington area. In a separate article here (via MSNBC), the post reports on a trend towards non-Japanese sushi chefs.
Ironically, these are two separate articles, but they fit together nicely. There is, it seems, a true shortage of traditionally trained Japanese sushi chefs. One hurdle for Japanese chefs is immigration - The previous restaurant I worked at shipped over chefs from Japan with an elaborate and expensive work visa - similar to brining in an Indian engineer from India.
Another issue is training. It takes many years to get traditionally trained as a sushi chef, and therefore there are fewer of these sushi elites to go around. The son of the Oyaji owner, I believe his name is Hiro, was actually talking about his planned relocation to japan for training. He mentioned that, as is the practice there, he will start as a very low level kitchen worker, gradually working up to a sushi chef role - a process that will require him to live in Japan for several years.
The end result of this environment is, as the post points out, so called Japanese restaurants with a mix of asian, hispanic and white chefs. In the bay area, this problem is not as pronounced - there are still quite a few japanese here. But I would say that most sushi restaurants have at least one non-Japanese asian working there, probably a korean. Although I’ve seen very few that have whites or mexicans (except todai).
Obviously, I think traditionally trained Japanese chefs are preferable, although in my experience these chefs tend to be less willing to experiment with sushi. There does seem to be a conflict here between innovation and tradition, and this is a line that traditionally trained Japanese chefs seems to be mostly unwilling to cross.
The exception here is Sushi Sams. Sam, a traditionally trained Japanese chef with lots of talent, offers a wide selection of fish that goes beyond the traditional sushi mold. His menu often features delicately constructed butter fish, white king salmon, black cod, trout, sea bass and arctic chaff creations that have the traditional sushi form, but are nicely complemented with non-traditional sauces, salts, garnishes, and more.
Sams does not go as far as polluting his menu with gimmicky rolls - a true sell-out move. But he does take a middle ground with his inventive nigiris and broad fish selection.
In any case, I am fine with a korean chef here or there, but I will walk out and leave any sushi bar with a white or mexican chef. Does that make me racist? well so be it.
The rationale here is that it is very unlikely that a white or mexican sushi chef was traditionally trained. Sure, that is a stereotype, but I’m not freeing slaves here, I’m trying to eat a meal.
Plus, well-trained Japanese chefs are not impossible to find, they are just expensive to hire (and keep). So, when I’m presented with a sushi bar with white or mexican chefs, I look at that as a cash saving move that was made at the sacrifice of authenticity and ultimately food quality.
I think the presence or absence of traditionally trained Japanese chefs will really start to be a differentiator as sushi restaurants proliferate. Although I would say most diners are not very knowledgeable about sushi, I would suggest that as more and more sushi bars sprout up, the difference between cheap gimmicky joints and traditional, well run places will be very evident.