Mar 05 2007
The Counter - A decent concept mired by poor service
Gourmet burgers are all the rage these days. Someone figured out that if your customers are the yuppie crowd, it’s more profitable to sell them elaborate $10 burger contraptions, rather than $5 fast food combos.
The Counter is one of those places. With a trendy design, highly customizable burger menu, and a full bar, this place is no McDonalds. Why? for one, McDonalds gives better service.
But, I’m digressing. Let’s start from the top. The Counter is a small franchise that currently has two locations. The first store (pictured) is in Santa Monica.
I hate the design of The Counter. The soft teal color scheme and industrial design is unattractive and depressing. The restaurant trys, unsuccessfully, to combine the chic look of an ultra lounge with the comfort of a burger joint. The end result is a restaurant that looks like a time machine broke down, spitting out hideous amalgam of future and past, with a little bit of prison coldness mixed in for good measure.
I visited the Palo Alto location on California Ave, a decent location packed with restaurants. At lunch the place was busy - not because all tables were filled, but because the hosts and cashiers were too slow to balance seating customers and taking to go orders. It’s frustrating when you’re forced to wait for a table when you see many tables open - but it’s infuriating when the person with your fate in their hands is some teenage girl with enough piercings to cripple an 18 wheeler.
So, I got togo. The menu is self-serve checklist style. You pick a burger type (beef, turkey, veggie, chicken), cheese, toppings, sauce and bun. You can also select a premium topping or a burger in a bowl, which is exactly what it sounds like (minus the bun).
The toppings are decent. I picked a horseradish cheddar burger with tomatoes, roasted chiles, spouts, mixed greens, sauteed mushrooms and a fried egg. I know, fried egg…sounds good though, don’t you think?
Perhaps, but I will never know. The girl who took my order got it wrong, and didn’t order my fried egg. Hard to imagine, since the order form has little check boxes, and the one next to ‘fried egg’ was checked. Seems simple enough, right?
In any case, I waited 20 minutes for my burger. And when you think of eating a burger for lunch, you never want to wait 20 minutes. Actually, my burger was done after about 15 minutes, and it sat there in the bag while my fries were finished.
The problem here, is that the burger had wet toppings, so by the time I actually got the burger the bottom bun was a big soggy mess. Not bad for $14, huh?
Actually, I know where my money went. It was spent on my togo bag.
This bag was HUGE! See, it’s almost as big as my computer! I’m not even sure if I should throw it away. I don’t know if it’ll fit in my trash can.
Anyway, the parts of the burger that was not soggy was actually decent. The sauteed mushrooms had a bit of rosemary, and the mixed greens, while sparse, added a nice peppery taste to the burger. The horseradish mayo that I selected was also very good.
I’ve seen sweet potato fries at several restaurants now, and I have to say, I love them. The Counter, despite its many failings, does succeed with these fries. They were crispy, flavorful, and well seasoned. Don’t bother with the included sauce though.
At the end of the day, The Counter has decent food that is vastly overshadowed by poor, slow service. In some cases, such as my soggy burger, the service affects the food directly. In other cases, the poor service makes you wish for a quick and efficient ‘fast food’ burger.
At one point, I asked the heavily pierced girl what the status of my burger was. As seemingly simple question, yet she walked around in circles for a while, played with the computer, and never even got back to me. And I was standing in front of her.
It’s this type of poor service that reflects most heavily on The Counter. Look, it’s easy to make a burger with a lot of toppings. But it’s hard to bring all the pieces together in a cohesive manner that makes said burger appealing - service, price, ambience, etc. This is where The Counter fails most significantly.
The Counter
369 California Avenue
Palo Alto, CA 94306
Telephone
650 321 3900
Fax
650 321 3902


