Upscale is the new fusion. Trust me. Everything is going upscale now, from burgers to dogs to burritos. Why, after all, open a traditional homestyle restaurant, when you can open a swanky upscale homestyle restaurant and charge 2x as much?
As such, it was not surprising to see that the T-Rex Barbeque in Berkeley took the upscale concept to BBQ. We’re taking ribs and pulled pork on the same menu as grilled ahi tuna with tapenade and an organic mixed baby lettuce salad with endives.
T-Rex looks the part, with a clean modern industrial design, dark hardwood floors and sleek, slightly uncomfortable furniture. The restaurant also features an impressive bar, with a thorough selection of vodkas, 10 beers on tap, and at least 30 in bottles.
I started with a drink whose name I can’t remember. It was a play on the bloody mary, but with citrus infused smirnoff instead of normal vodka, a hint of ginger, freshly grated horseradish and tomato juice. At $9, it was a bit expensive for a Saturday brunch, but well worth it. The combination of sour, tangy and a bit of bitter worked well. The drink was also the most impressively garnished cocktail I have ever seen, with skewered picked brussel sprouts, peppers, capers and turnips.
The food though was a bit of a letdown. I went for the ribs of course, and I quickly discovered the flaw of upscale BBQ. Instead of the messy half rack that I was expecting to see, my plate held 6 delicately sliced ribs neatly staged on a bed of BBQ sauce (note, this picture is not mine, it’s from Flickr, and it’s of a full rack, not the half rack that I had). BLASPHEMY! They were just too neat. Ribs should be slathered in sauce, with fat and meat falling off the bones - the ribs at T-Rex are cooked to make sure your cuffs stay clean. They were moderately tender - not bad - but not rich and fall-off-the-boney as I would have liked.
The flavor was also a bit disappointing. From the looks of T-Rex’s kitchen, they don’t use traditional smokers - and it showed. I should have expected as much when I first arrived and was not welcomed by the telltale smoke and BBQ aroma.
Now lets be clear, I’m no BBQ connoisseur. But I know enough to call out T-Rex’s ribs - that’s for sure. I mean, true, it’s a risk/reward situation. T-Rex is less risky that driving to a real ribs joint in Oakland - but the reward is lower as well - especially true if you are looking for a ‘real’ BBQ experience.
And now to the grading:
-Food: B- T-Rex gets an A- for drinks, but the food in itself is disappointing. Now let me say this, I love their attention to detail. The homemade pickles in my drink were incredible. The homemade chips and breads are impressive as well. But a BBQ joint is a BBQ joint, and for this they get only a B-. Their ribs are inexcusable - for all the work they do on their rest of the menu, I would have hoped they’d put as much effort into their core menu items.
-Selection: B A broad, yet weird selection. Really, Tuna tapenade and ribs - they don’t really fit. But again, the drink menu is impressive, while the main menu is only slightly better than average. Keep in mind though, we did go for saturday brunch when they have a limited menu. You can check out their other menus here.
-Service: B The service was decent - it took a while for the server to take our order, but she was attentive throughout the meal.
-Ambience: B+ T-Rex has a nice open-air atmosphere, with a sleek modern design. Nothing to complain about here, except the furniture which is slightly uncomfortable. One problem though, the open air design lets in all sorts of bugs, and these guys were buzzing over our heads throughout the meal.
-Overall: B I think T-Rex is a great place to go for a nite on the town. The drinks are plentiful, the place has a neat and fun atmosphere, and the food is very decent. You’re not going to go to T-Rex just for the food, and the way this place is designed, it seems like everyone knows this. The upscale BBQ joint is designed for the corporate lunch or yuppie night crowd, not discerning diners.
T-Rex Barbeque
1300 Tenth Street (Cross St. Gilman)
Berkeley, CA 94710
(510) 527- 0099