Our trip to NOBU was supposed to be one of the highlights of our Vegas weekend. We passed over well regarded local joints like Rosemary’s for the world renown japanese restaurant. And our reservations? Made a month in advance.
Ironically, I am halfway through this book called The Sushi Economy, and after I returned from vegas I started on a chapter that follows the history of NOBU owner, Nobu Matsuhisa. Nobu was traditionally trained in Japan, but also worked in Peru, Argentinia, Alaska, and finally L.A. He started his own sushi restaurant from the ground up, and eventually hit paydirt when one of his customers, Robert DeNiro, asked him to form a partnership.
The rest, of course, is history. Today, Nobu, who is nearly 60 years old, operates NOBU restaurants in New York, London, Tokyo, Hong Kong and Hawaii, among other cities.
Supposedly, one of NOBU’s trademarks is a focus on fresh fish. He also leverages his experience in South America to bring a unique southern taste to his dishes.
NOBU in Las Vegas is located in the Hard Rock hotel and casino. The hotel is actually very nice, if a little rowdy (the dress code enforced after 7pm sign was a tip-off).
The restaurant itself was nice, if a little generic. I mean, it’s hard to fault Nobu for this, but every japanese restaurant in vegas has a similar style of decoration - some bamboo here and there, some polished stones, and a large sign with one of the many asian fonts that you find in Microsoft Word.
NOBU serves food family style, and our waiter recommended that we try a mix of several hot dishes and several cold dishes. A so-so selection of sushi is also available.
We started with hamachi w/ a soy-style sauce and jalapenos. This is, I believe, one of NOBU’s trademark dishes and one that has been copied frequently. The hamachi was fine, and it acquired a mexican-style taste when, as our waiter suggested, we ate it with the jalapeno and a piece of cilantro. The soy sauce was decent as well, but overall the dish was quite ordinary.
Our next dish was ‘live’ scallop. I’ve had this dish many times in many sushi bars, and NOBU’s version was mediocre. The scallop was good, but I’ve had better at Oyaji. I was also disappointed with the use of sriracha - the viet rooster sauce. Again, nothing very unique, not very original.
The highlight of the night, and both myself and TJFKAK easily reached a consensus on this, was the black cod. Basically, any hawaiian will recognize this dish as butterfish. But the cut of fish was spectacular, and it was cooked (broiled I believe) in a way that created a nice crust on the outside, while preserving the rich flesh internally. I’ve had butterfish before that was just too dry and flaky - this one was prepared wonderfully, with attention not only to flavor but with the texture and richness of the fish as well.
Our final dish was deep fried uni. The uni was served, actually deep fried, wrapped in shiso leaves. Deep fried shitakes were also presented on the plate. I though this one looked really good on the menu, but it was perhaps the most disappointing of the bunch. The uni acquired a mushy, nearly creamy consistency after being deep fried. Although it contrasted well with the crunchy shiso leaf, the dish itself lacked flavor.
And we can forget the libations (TJFKAK taught me that word this weekend). My first drink was a yuzu infused martini (not pictured). This drink was actually very very good, if a bit citrusy. The others, pictured from top to bottom, are a lychee martini, a pomegranate martini and a sake style martini. I’m not getting the names right, but that’s basically what they were. The lychee martini was not overly sweet and mixed with a milky sake. Not bad. The pomegranate martini was basically a cosmo. Finally the sake martini was pretty good, smooth, and made with flavorful sake.
As for dessert, we got a coffee flavored ice cream with ground peanuts. The ground peanuts was similar to kinako, a japanese powered soy topping, i think.
Now for the ratings.
Food: B Really, there was nothing special here. It was kind of a disappointment. Sure, the cod was excellent, but you have high expectations for NOBU.
Selection: B+ The selection was decent, but not the 200 item menu that the original NOBU restaurants were known for. Really, this didn’t make a big difference either way, but they did a good job of splitting hot and cold dishes to make your meal flow smoothly.
Service: A- Our server was very helpful and pretty attentive. He had a surprisingly good knowledge of the menu, and did a good job of suggesting items. There are a lot of people working there, so you will get your water refilled quickly, and have your dirty plates bussed right when you finish.
Ambience: B Like I said, somewhat generic and cookie cutter asian-y. One thing that was really odd was we were seated in a 2 person table where the bench was kind of an L shape, and with no extra chair. This basically meant that I was sitting to the left of TJFKAK, and in order for her to get up I had to get up. That was annoying.
Overall: B The thing is, you really have very very high expectations going to NOBU. And, the restaurant just didn’t deliver.
Let me tell you something about Japanese food in vegas. Every halfway decent hotel has a trendy-looking japanese restaurant that has a Nobu-style menu, meaning fusiony appetizers and entrees, and most likely some high priced meats, like kobe, and even some foie gois. You shouldn’t get sushi at these places, because it’s really an afterthought. You don’t know your chef, and your chef is most likely not japanese. Vegas is like trendy sushi for dummies, and when you think about it, it makes sense. You have people from all over the United States, so you can’t go too traditional. Vegas is right, it does japanese food how vegas should do japanese food - and it works very well in terms of revenue - but from a Cali perspective, it’s not all that interesting.
So, NOBU gets a B. It is really a watered-down version of every creative japanese restaurant I’ve ever been to, which is ironic, considering that every japanese restaurant in some way or another has their eyes on NOBU, who is, for all intents and purposes, the Jordan of japanese cuisine.
Oh, and did I mention the bill was $250?